Why Colour Analysis Needs Decolonising: Part 1 – Kibbe

The Power of style book is heavy in the hands, its black and gold art deco motif promising glamour. Glamour it has in plenty, movie stars of a bygone era act as a muses and like many others, I was sucked into working out my image identity (body silhouette), which took me and several hours and AI assistance to work out. Don’t judge until you have tried to work it out yourself. However, I am not here to discuss the book or the image identities, I am here to talk about my passion, colour, and how, yet again, how colour analysis doesn't always include women of colour.

Kibbe has his own variation of the 12 season colour analysis and sub seasons. I was initially very gratified to see that the fabric swatches he shows in the book- which are exactly the same as I use with clients. He goes on to suggest different colours to drape to find your palette, which can be a good diagnostic tool, but is also a flawed approach as it assumes a level of literacy differentiating cool and warm colours that most don't have.  Who outside of colour analysts or those that have it in their palette know what specific shade of red is geranium?

However, what really disappointed me was his categories for skin and hair belonging to each season. In his skin, hair and eye descriptors for each season,  that he says are ‘required for each of the Seasons'; a prevailing stereotype became apparent. Women of Colour that have black or dark brown hair and dark brown black, brown eyes-  CAN.ONLY. BE. WINTERS.

For educational purposes only, this is not my work.

For educational purposes only.

Kibbe, who has seen thousands of clients, reducing women of colour to one season. This is both reductive and lacking in nuance. I have draped clients with deep brown eyes and dark skin who shone in warm and clear colours- clearly Springs. I was told I was a Warm Autumn in my first analysis, yet according to Kibbe’s rigid hair-colour rules, that’s impossible- due to the darkness of my hair. 

It made me think of the Korea system- where individuals tend to have dark hair and dark eyes, yet they can be any one of the seasons. Created Colorful has a highlight on their page showing the breadth of seasons for women of colour - Warm Springs, Soft Autumns, Cool Summers, Deep Autumns, and Clear/ Bright Springs- all with hair/ or eyes that are deeper than Kibbe will allow for.

As a colour analyst, I know how difficult it can be to type someone in person. The more neutral they are, the more drapes I use, trying to work out exactly how soft they can go or how clear they can go. With the women of colour, I have been astounded at how many are springs. 

Real life colour analysis does not follow the rules.

That's why I was so disappointed to see a reductive list of skin, hair and eyes that lacks nuance from an experienced stylist with such a huge following. If I'm honest, I didn't touch the book again for several months. As a woman of colour, I didn't see myself except in the stereotypical Winter category. Look, my Mum is a Cool Winter and she slays in those colours. I am more neutral than her. Would a person with a cool undertone look as good as I do in orange and yellow???? (I’m a Bright Spring, Warm Autumn, hybrid with a touch of Winter according to John Kitchener).  What about my clients below- have I draped them wrong? I think not.

Decolonising Colour analysis

Colour Analysis was based on Eurocentric ideals. It was primarily created for people that looked like the creators. In the diverse societies we live in now, and with the access we have via the internet and social media, colour analysis frameworks need to be updated. 

I could see evidence of that in Anuschka Rees’s Personal Color book, where she showed a variety of skin tones. But, in most cases the general assumptions and stereotypes that permeate Colour Analysis only work to alienate vast amounts of women.

A new framework is needed or the existing ones need to evolve.

If you are a colour analyst, here is your homework:

Be aware of your implicit biases and how they show up in draping

clients and in the content you make. 

Let clients sit in your chair with you having no assumptions about which season they may be.

In your content ask yourself:

Are you showcasing a variety of different skin tones? 

Are all clients with dark hair and eyes  being placed in Winter?

If you are an ally, challenge creators that make sweeping statements like: 

“Wear your eye colour to look healthy”

“Your hair colour will be found in your palette”

Neither of these hold for those of us with deeper skin tone- UNLESS YOU HAVE A BESPOKE PALETTE. When your eyes are deep brown, and you wear deep brown, you end up with a monochromatic brown look that looks dull!  Whilst the colour of these women's eyes are beautiful, they may not want to wear them all the time or at all.

My Spring clients above with dark brown/ black hair don't receive black in their palette. Deep colours can often mute their natural glow.

Allow for the nuance that is colour, and how it reacts to individuals.

Let the drapes tell the story.

Peace.

Michelle